Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
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My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Beginning to Saw:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.