A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

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The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you want to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Piercing.

Starting to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Repairing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

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