A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale jobs, but the option is down to personal choice.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate outcome each time.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Save this for later on.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Fixing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure once again till its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Fixing:.

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