A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Save this for later on.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Beginning to Saw:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result each time.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
File to complete.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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