A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just undo and repeat the procedure once again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Fixing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Piercing.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Conserve this for later.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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