A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Installing a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise outcome every time.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later on.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Troubleshooting:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Starting to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *