A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard areas.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Fixing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Troubleshooting:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Save this for later on.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

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