There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard locations.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Starting to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result each time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
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Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments including drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again up until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).