A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Fixing:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Conserve this for later on.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

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