A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

Conserve this for later on.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure again up until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact result whenever.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

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