When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise outcome each time.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
Beginning to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
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Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.