A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an accurate outcome each time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Save this for later.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Troubleshooting:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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