A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to complete.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a stable and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing.

Beginning to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Repairing:.

Save this for later on.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

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