A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact result whenever.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Fixing:.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Conserve this for later.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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