Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the option is down to individual choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is total.
File to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Starting to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Save this for later on.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise result each time.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.