Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale projects, however the option is down to personal preference.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Save this for later on.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise result each time.