A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale projects, but the option is down to individual preference.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

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Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Repairing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome each time.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure once again till its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

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