There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to personal preference.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Conserve this for later on.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.