Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal preference.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. The table below includes all the information you will need to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Starting to Saw:.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
File to complete.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments including drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact outcome every time.
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Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.