There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual choice.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below includes all the information you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
File to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more complex design onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.