A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing whenever.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Conserve this for later.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate outcome every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Troubleshooting:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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