A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for little scale projects, but the option is down to personal preference.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate result every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process once again till its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
File to end up.

Save this for later.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Repairing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

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