Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to personal choice.
There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Starting to Saw:.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an accurate result each time.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
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Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.