A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing each time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process once again up until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Repairing:.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result each time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Conserve this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complex design onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Starting to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

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