A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale projects, however the option is down to individual choice.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Beginning to Saw:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Conserve this for later on.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

Repairing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

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