A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Troubleshooting:.

Conserve this for later.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

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