A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Installing a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Starting to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome each time.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Save this for later.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

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