A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual preference.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Starting to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to finish.

Troubleshooting:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Repairing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Conserve this for later on.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an exact result every time.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

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