A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Troubleshooting:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Conserve this for later.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to end up.

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

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