A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Save this for later on.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact outcome each time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process once again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Repairing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Piercing.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

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