Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later on.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.