A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale tasks, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure a precise outcome every time.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Fixing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Conserve this for later.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Repairing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

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