A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome each time.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Troubleshooting:.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Fixing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Save this for later.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
File to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

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