A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

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Starting to Saw:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Repairing:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Fixing:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an exact result each time.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

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