Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Installing a blade into a saw:
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
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My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact result whenever.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to complete.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and repeat the process once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.