Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result whenever.
Save this for later on.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.