A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.

Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

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Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

Troubleshooting:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate result each time.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

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