Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is total.
Submit to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Starting to Saw:.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Conserve this for later.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.