A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.

Sawing

Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is total.
Submit to finish.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Repairing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Piercing.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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