A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal choice.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Starting to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an exact outcome every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Fixing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Conserve this for later on.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

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