A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Conserve this for later.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Fixing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Starting to Saw:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure a precise result each time.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

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