There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.
Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee a precise outcome every time.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Beginning to Saw:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.