A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Conserve this for later.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an exact result each time.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Troubleshooting:.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Piercing.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.

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