Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome each time.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complex design onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Conserve this for later.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.