A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing whenever.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Save this for later on.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result whenever.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Fixing:.

Troubleshooting:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you desire to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Starting to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

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