A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Fixing:.

Piercing.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Starting to Saw:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Conserve this for later on.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Repairing:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

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