There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Starting to Saw:.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.
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The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process once again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.