A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process once again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to complete.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Fixing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Conserve this for later.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

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