A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale jobs, but the option is down to personal preference.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.

Troubleshooting:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Piercing.

Save this for later on.

Fixing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise result whenever.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different attachments including drill bits.

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