A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Save this for later.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result every time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to complete.

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